Kek Lok Si

While I’m watching the washing go round and round at the laundromat, let me write some more about what I’ve been up to.

I have memories of climbing many steps past lots of little stalls on my way up to the Buddhist temple of Kek Lok Si, overlooking Penang, 30 years ago during my first visit here.

The steps seem to be gone now, replaced by a couple of funiculars with a buggy ride in between. Also, there’s a giant statue of Guanyin covered with a massive shelter taking pride of place now.

There are spectacular views of Penang from the top now, but the experience feels more like a drive and see now rather than a spiritual journey. On the way down we have to dodge a massive forklift delivery.

We’d caught a Grab to Air Itam at the base of Kek Lok Si and had roti canai and roti pisang (banana) for breakfast at the scruffy, but atmospheric, food court opposite the wet markets. We returned after Kek Lok Si for assam laksa, char kuey teow and nutmeg juice for lunch. So much better than what we ate yesterday. And cheaper.

A Grab back and a nap.

Grab is the Southeast Asian equivalent of Uber. I don’t use Uber, but Grab is much easier than dealing with Malaysian taxis. No more haggling fares or arguing over using meters in dirty taxis. Taxis still exist, but nobody seems to recommend them.

It’s not perfect. Up in Tumpat nobody wanted to pick me up for over half an hour. In Ipoh, a number cancelled on us.

I’m still sick of catching them. So much money spent getting around.

While the others rest, I head out to a laundromat on Kimberley Street, taking a much longer route than I should have. It’s quite busy, but I snag the last washing machine. Afterwards, it’s another half an hour for the dryer.

I finally work out the most efficient route for the way back. On the way I pass an evening food market out the front of the Komtar shopping centre. I buy some goreng pisang (fried banana fritters) and a huge cup of lemon lychee drink from the Muslim stalls.

Once more we debate dinner. I find a highly ranked bak kut teh outlet at SS88 on Kimberley Street. It’s actually a stall within a kopitiam, but according to B and Alex it’s delicious. I decide to wait. I’m not very hungry and just have another nutmeg juice.

Outside are the Kimberley Street night markets. They aren’t very extensive, but one stall has a long queue. Apparently Michelin starred sup kuey teow. We don’t join the queue.

There’s also a durian cart and B finally has her delight and our disgust. The huge, spiky, smelly fruit is not cheap and she makes certain she eats all of it.

She’s full, but make do with a curry puff. It’s starting to rain, so we head back. B wants to browse a couple of shops in 1st Avenue Mall. We look for something extra to eat, ending up on the fourth floor. I order a nonya kerabu bee hoon, which is a dome of fried thin noodles with herbs and shrimp. I enjoy it, along with a sirup bandung drink, but Alex says his Pad Thai noodles are horrible. Wrong country I guess.

It’s still pouring with rain outside, so we just head back to the hotel. I think the trip is catching up with us, everyone is exhausted.

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