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On our very first trip to Japan we stepped off the Narita Express into the world’s busiest station of Shinjuku and we’ve been returning ever since. Tokyo as a whole is an amazing city, but Shinjuku is a destination in its own right. With canyons of neon, tunnels of shops and crowds of crazy youth it’s like nowhere else on Earth.

When it comes to historical sites nowhere else in Japan can compare with Kyoto. There is far too much to see on any one visit, so just pick a few and enjoy. Highlights include the temples and shops around Higashiyama, including the mountainside Kiyomizu-dera temple, and the tunnels of torii at the Fushimi-Inari shrine. But if I had to pick a couple of special activities then the first would be catching the Randen, Kyoto’s last tram, up to Arashiyama and taking a walk through the bamboo tunnel of Sagano to the beautiful gardens of the Tenryu-ji temple. The second is walking the Tetsugaku no michi, the Path of Philosophy, from the gorgeous gardens of Ginkaku-ji, under the cherry trees and past the quaint shops and cafes, then down to Japan’s first hydroelectric plant and the Keage Incline.

It’s not just the magnificently scenic train ride up into the mountains along the Hida river or the historically preserved streets and wood crafts. Nor is it just the magnificent festival floats that parade through the streets at night accompanied by drums and flutes. What brings us back time and time again is the Hida beef. Served on a skewer or grilled over a charcoal fire atop a magnolia leaf with mountain vegetables and local miso, all other beef has paled in comparison.

Japan is home to many onsen towns but few are as well preserved and as pretty as Kinosaki. Stepping off the train here is like walking into another age as yukata clad ryokan guests stroll alongside the willow lined canal between the seven famous hot springs, each with its own unique features. This is the only one of my favourites that has seen a single visit, but that surely won’t be our last.

Nestled away in the foothills of the Japanese Alps this rural town has a surprising amount to offer. It is the centre of Japanese replica food production and visitors can try their hand at making their own wax food. The castle overlooking the town may be a reconstruction, but it is a faithful one and the views from the top are beautiful, as is the small garden at the Jionzen-ji temple. There are other attractive temples too, old streets with building from past eras and good food to eat, including delicious Hida beef. But the real stars of the town are the pure springs and the two clear rivers, their banks lined with a haphazard selection of the town’s buildings. Even the journey there is part of the fun, small diesel railcars chugging alongside the Nagara River past tiny towns, in Spring the trackside lined with pink cherry blossoms.

The light is different on Shikoku, smallest of Japan’s four main islands. It’s almost Mediterranean in nature and indeed you might sometimes think you are in Spain as you pass the orange groves which produce the region’s favourite fruit. I love the quiet city of Matsuyama, the old trams and the Botchan Ressha trundling along the streets to their terminus at the famous Dogo Onsen, the arcades of quirky shops and the well preserved castle overlooking it all. Even the Takashimaya department store has a giant ferris wheel on its roof. Life moves at a different pace on Shikoku and it’s a great place to escape from the frenzied life of Japan’s bigger cities.

When it comes to sights Kanazawa stands out by far. It’s not quantity, but quality and variety that count here. The greatest site of all is Kenroku-en, in my opinion, and that of many others, Japan’s best garden. Both times I have visited Kanazawa have been during peak cherry blossom season, when Kenroku-en is open both day and night, making for a magical experience. Another amazing garden, this one much smaller, can be found at the Nomura-ke house in the Nagamachi Samurai district, a beautifully preserved area with stone streets, high walls and gushing streams. There are also well preserved geisha and teahouse streets, such as in the Higashi Chaya district. Do take a look at the local crafts museum with the area famous for gorgeous gold leaf, lacquer and pottery craft amongst many others. And when you get hungry there’s fresh seafood at the Omicho Market. You can now do Kanazawa as a long day trip from Tokyo or Kyoto, but do yourself a favour and stay longer. You won’t regret visiting this jewel of Japan.

Other Japanese places that have made a big impression. It was quite tough to decide which towns should be included as virtual every place I have visited has made a positive impression in one way or another.

A sacred Buddhist shrine complex in the mountains, the ride from Osaka is very scenic.

Tsuwano

A pleasant little castle town nestled in a valley. Though the castle is gone the well preserved samurai district remains with canals filled with huge koi carp. Climb up through a tunnel of red and black torii to reach an Inari shrine with fantastic views over the valley.

Near the top of Honshu, Hirosaki’s Neputa festival paper lantern floats are amazing. You can view them in the museum along with other local crafts. The castle grounds are pretty, especially during cherry blossom season. All sorts of local apple products are on sale.

Sure the eight hells are aimed at tourists, but these multicoloured pools of boiling water and mud are something new for those of us who live in less volcanically active places.

Koraku-en garden is one of Japan’s top 3, overlooked by Okayama Castle. There are trams to ride on and local peach and grape products for sale. It’s a useful hub for exploring the area.